Warning: this post contains images of the deceased.
Leaving the region of Bohemia behind, we headed deeper into the Czech Republic. On our way we lunched by a large pond with strange ripples. After a while we realised this potential Loch Ness monster was in fact, giant eels! Lucky we decided not to go swimming. I drank my rather delicous Czech beer from the relative safety of the shore.
As we had only limited time we planned only a few days in this area and therefore a few of what we hoped were the best towns.
We began with a short stop at Telc, known for it's unusually pretty town square. This was largely due to the buildings that ringed it. Built in the 16th century after a terrible fire, the houses are all on the same style, making it very pleasing to the eye.
After our meandering around the square and peeking at the little market stalls that were on display, we headed on for the town of Brno. I wasn't sure what to expect, as all I knew was that it was the second largest city in the Czech Republic - not necessarily a good thing.
However it turned out to be rather nice. We had bad timing as usual (although some might call it good timing) and after asking the campsite why they were so ridiculously busy, soon discovered it was due to the motorbike Grand Prix. We did however manage to get a place even with being stopped by a Frenchman who was excited - and misled - by our French car numberplate.
Upon entering the city we were greeted by the unforgettable sight of a long and loud procession of interesting and historically dressed people. Their military regalia was in honour of the successful defence of the city against the Swedish forces in the Thirty Years War, and was very uplifting sight with the marching bands and brightly costumed soldiers.
Our next stop was something of a disappointment compared, we had heard of the mystical Brno dragon, a terrible creature that now hung in the old town hall. However upon arrival, it turned out to be a rather plasticy looking crocodile. One item that was quite interesting was this wheel. According to legend, a craftsman from Lednice bet with his friends that in twelve hours he could cut down a tree, carve it into a wheel, and roll it all the way to Brno. Astoundingly he accomplished this goal successfully and won the bet - the wheel has been in Brno ever since. The tale takes a darker turn however as many thought that he could not have accomplished such a feet with ordinary means, and it was said that he had made a deal with the Devil. Due to this he lost his clientele and died in poverty.
Brno was also home to some more disturbing displays too. The Capuchin chapel held the most disturbing human remains I've ever seen, although also perhaps the most interesting. I've always had a fascination with mummified feet, and these ones were beautifully displayed.
Ending in the 18th century due to hygiene laws, the past three hundred years before saw hundreds of monks laid to rest and naturally mummified. Laid in the crypt in long rows with only a brick for a pillow and clutching rosary beads, the dryness of the air meant they mummified naturally, decaying at a much slower rate. More human than any other remains I've ever seen, the expressions on their faces, sometimes peaceful, at other times horrific, was just too eerie for me. I left glad to be out in the daylight again, and thoroughly jumpy. Not for the faint hearted, I do recommend visiting this chapel of you have an interest in the dead, but prepare yourself.
We decided to continue on as we still had daylight left, and time was short. Our next stop was the town of Olomouc, somewhere not usually on the tourist map, which suited us just fine after the seething crowds of Prague. It was an interesting town with a long history, from oral records as a Roman fort, to the seat of the Přemyslid dynasty. One of it's most interest moments was that it was here in Olomouc that King Wenceslaus III was assasinated in 1306 on his way to fight against his main contender for the throne, Władysław the Elbow-high (and if that isn't a magnificent name I don't know what is). His assassination is still a mystery to this day as his assassins were never identified, and with him died the entire Přemyslid dynasty.
Although it was getting late in the day and the museum was close to closing, we decided to go anyway as it sounded interesting and we didn't know if we would get the chance otherwise. This fantastically bejewelled carriage was rather impressive and probably my favourite thing about the museum.
One of the main things that put me off about the museum were the usherers, in each room we went, silent people pointed us in the direction we needed to go. It made me feel rather pressured, at one point we realised we had missed something and tried to go back but were forcibly waved the other way by a lady with no English. Aside from this (and the time constraint) it was very enjoyable!
After this we wandered the streets and took in the attractive sights, watching the foreboding sky warily.
One of my favourite spots in Olomouc was the central square, featuring not only a holy trinity column (photgraphed below) but also a lot of beautiful architecture and a rather fancy anatomical clock with an interesting focus on the veneration of the worker, showing a man in overalls holding a spanner and surrounded by golden mosaic. Very communist.
Our accomodation for the night was as cheap as it was unusual. We had a little confusion over finding it, and once in the building realised it was in fact university dorms! Rented out during the students summer break, the building was rather old and full of narrow brown corridors that reminded me rather strongly of the HSB building at Auckland university that we had always fondly thought of as a reformed insane asylum from the seventies. The rooms however we very sweet and ridiculously cheap. For the same price as camping in many places, we were given three beds, a private kitchen and a private bathroom, not to mention free car parking. It was brilliant!
No comments:
Post a Comment