Make a quick stop at Aquileia, which I highly recommend if you're into Roman ruins, (which you obviously should be) though sunscreen and water is a definite must. It's hard to believe this was once one of the largest cities of the ancient world.
It was interesting to revisit some of the places we had been a few years before. Trieste was one of those, a tiny part of Italy. The last time I was there, an enormous storm hit, resulting in serious flooding, rats running across the streets (okay, just the one rat) and camping on a hillside, earnestly plotting at 2am how to throw my hair straighteners out of the tent without actually touching them, convinced I was about to be hit by lightening from the insane storm raging (Spoiler: I didn't die). This time, there was no storm, and the city was tranquil and hot.
We went back here because my other brother hadn't been before, but (really) we went back for the insanely good white chocolate gelato - and yes it was as good as we remembered! If you visit one place in Trieste, go to Zampolli, for the best gelato ever!
We had planned to camp in Trieste, but it was so hot that we headed for a cheap house in the mountains for the night instead, crossing the border into Slovenia. Once in Eastern Europe, surprisingly, Booking.com is often the way to go for cheap interesting accomodation (as well airbnb of course).
Unlike Western Europe, in these parts Booking.com is used by people often renting out their summer houses, and so not only is it cost effective, but you also are able to stay in some lovely places, and meet the locals (which is always the best way to explore a new place!) This one didn't disappoint, the tiny mountain roads soon turned to gravel, and then grass, leaving us wondering if we had gone horribly astray. Almost a cabin in the mountains, it was a lovely wooden house, looking onto a pristine garden, perfect for eating dinner outside, and blessedly cool (not that this stopped the hoards of invading mosquitoes who were soon delighted to find their favourite snack: me). To end the day perfectly, we made Galettes, drank cider and watched Game of Thrones; this is the life!
1st August
There's something ultimately peaceful in waking up to birdsong and the view of green mountains; if we had only had coffee I would have been in heaven! It was an auspicious day, as we were heading towards Ljubljana, one of my favourite cities in the world.
I was longing to experience living there. It's a tiny city, more of a town, but it's so green, with clean, broad avenues, and a beautiful river with many spots to sit or eat. Apparently its listed as one of Europe's most livable cities - I can see why!
We went and had lunch in a courtyard out the back of a restaurant which was really lovely with ivy growing up the brick walls, it felt secluded, and it more importantly, it was shady! I tried the mushroom gnocchi, mainly to see what Cep mushrooms are like (interesting) and to see if I would like the gnocchi - but as always it was stodgy and heavy - perhaps I just don't like gnocchi.
I was longing to experience living there. It's a tiny city, more of a town, but it's so green, with clean, broad avenues, and a beautiful river with many spots to sit or eat. Apparently its listed as one of Europe's most livable cities - I can see why!
We went and had lunch in a courtyard out the back of a restaurant which was really lovely with ivy growing up the brick walls, it felt secluded, and it more importantly, it was shady! I tried the mushroom gnocchi, mainly to see what Cep mushrooms are like (interesting) and to see if I would like the gnocchi - but as always it was stodgy and heavy - perhaps I just don't like gnocchi.
2nd August
We made it to Zagreb at last, driving over the border to Croatia the next day - it was strange hitting so many countries and capitals in quick succession, especially when these capital cities didn't feel like capitals at all (in a good way). It was small, more like a town, and not busy at all.
We made it to Zagreb at last, driving over the border to Croatia the next day - it was strange hitting so many countries and capitals in quick succession, especially when these capital cities didn't feel like capitals at all (in a good way). It was small, more like a town, and not busy at all.
I tried Ožujsko beer, but wasn't very impressed (give me my goat beer Kozel any day!) The weather was incredibly hot, with temperatures climbing into the 40s Celsius, and railways through eastern Europe had tracks that were literally melting; so like idiots we hiked up and down the hillside, until near dying from heat we retired to a wonderfully cool restaurant called Trilogija. I'm not usually one for salads in restaurants, but with the heat it was about all I could manage, and I was pleasantly surprised by one of the nicest Caesar salads I've had! I even dared to try my brothers tuna carpaccio, and to my shock I enjoyed that too! Devilry. Maybe the beautiful rosé grown half an hour away that we washed down lunch with helped.
We then headed to the Museum of Broken Relationships, which I was intrigued by. A museum dedicated to personal objects signifying the stories of failed relationships sounded fascinating, unfortunately there was an enormous wait, so we had to give up! I would recommend going just as they open, or maybe booking tickets online if possible, to avoid disappointment. The others went to a museum of naive art instead which sounded like a lovely alternative, however I was feeling the cost of lunch so enjoyed reading my book in the shade instead.
Our lovely day ended on a rather low note, as we picked up a bolt in our car tire that evening, leaving us with the task of finding a garage in the morning to buy a new one. It can't be perfect all the time!
