Slovenia and Croatia: July-August 2017

31 July
Make a quick stop at Aquileia, which I highly recommend if you're into Roman ruins, (which you obviously should be) though sunscreen and water is a definite must. It's hard to believe this was once one of the largest cities of the ancient world.

It was interesting to revisit some of the places we had been a few years before. Trieste was one of those, a tiny part of Italy. The last time I was there, an enormous storm hit, resulting in serious flooding, rats running across the streets (okay, just the one rat) and camping on a hillside, earnestly plotting at 2am how to throw my hair straighteners out of the tent without actually touching them, convinced I was about to be hit by lightening from the insane storm raging (Spoiler: I didn't die).  This time, there was no storm, and the city was tranquil and hot.

 We went back here because my other brother  hadn't been before, but (really) we went back for the insanely good white chocolate gelato - and yes it was as good as we remembered! If you visit one place in Trieste, go to Zampolli, for the best gelato ever!

We had planned to camp in Trieste, but it was so hot that we headed for a cheap house in the mountains for the night instead, crossing the border into Slovenia. Once in Eastern Europe, surprisingly, Booking.com is often the way to go for cheap interesting accomodation (as well airbnb of course).
Unlike Western Europe, in these parts Booking.com is used by people often renting out their summer houses, and so not only is it cost effective, but you also are able to stay in some lovely places, and meet the locals (which is always the best way to explore a new place!) This one didn't disappoint, the tiny mountain roads soon turned to gravel, and then grass, leaving us wondering if we had gone horribly astray. Almost a cabin in the mountains, it was a lovely wooden house, looking onto a pristine garden, perfect for eating dinner outside, and blessedly cool (not that this stopped the hoards of invading mosquitoes who were soon delighted to find their favourite snack: me). To end the day perfectly, we made Galettes, drank cider and watched Game of Thrones; this is the life!

1st August 

There's something ultimately peaceful in waking up to birdsong and the view of green mountains; if we had only had coffee I would have been in heaven! It was an auspicious day, as we were heading towards Ljubljana, one of my favourite cities in the world.

I was longing to experience living there. It's a tiny city, more of a town, but it's so green, with clean, broad avenues, and a beautiful river with many spots to sit or eat. Apparently its listed as one of Europe's most livable cities - I can see why!

 We went and had lunch in a courtyard out the back of a restaurant which was really lovely with ivy growing up the brick walls, it felt secluded, and it more importantly, it was shady! I tried the mushroom gnocchi, mainly to see what Cep mushrooms are like (interesting) and to see if I would like the gnocchi - but as always it was stodgy and heavy - perhaps I just don't like gnocchi.

2nd August  
We made it to Zagreb at last, driving over the border to Croatia the next day - it was strange hitting so many countries and capitals in quick succession, especially when these capital cities didn't feel like capitals at all (in a good way). It was small, more like a town, and not busy at all.

I tried Ožujsko beer, but wasn't very impressed (give me my goat beer Kozel any day!) The weather was incredibly hot, with temperatures climbing into the 40s Celsius, and railways through eastern Europe had tracks that were literally melting; so like idiots we hiked up and down the hillside, until near dying from heat we retired to a wonderfully cool restaurant called Trilogija. I'm not usually one for salads in restaurants, but with the heat it was about all I could manage, and I was pleasantly surprised by one of the nicest Caesar salads I've had! I even dared to try my brothers tuna carpaccio, and to my shock I enjoyed that too! Devilry. Maybe the beautiful rosé grown half an hour away that we washed down lunch with helped.

We then headed to the Museum of Broken Relationships, which I was intrigued by. A museum dedicated to personal objects signifying the stories of failed relationships sounded fascinating, unfortunately there was an enormous wait, so we had to give up! I would recommend going just as they open, or maybe booking tickets online if possible, to avoid disappointment. The others went to a  museum of naive art instead which sounded like a lovely alternative, however I was feeling the cost of lunch so enjoyed reading my book in the shade instead.
Our lovely day ended on a rather low note, as we picked up a bolt in our car tire that evening, leaving us with the task of finding a garage in the morning to buy a new one. It can't be perfect all the time!

Europe Highlights 2017: Venice

July

We had problems finding campsites in the lake district, especially around Lake Maggiore, as it was touristy as ever, we finally found a place for the night in a campsite where the owner used a strange mixture of Italian and German to make himself understood. My brother luckily used his Italian skills, and managed to understand his warning of vipers going after bunnies in the campsite so to wear shoes at all times (vicious vipers being my own personal nightmare. yay.) we settled in somewhat cautiously for the night; luckily no vipers were seen and no bunnies harmed whilst we were there. In the morning we were off to Venice!

Venice
The thing with Venice, I realized, is I had barely scratched the surface. If you visit the surface of Venice, I can well understand how it doesn't seem a tempting place. Overcrowded, touristy, expensive, ruined? Look deeper.



















The thing is, this is a city where you have to look a little further. If you are expecting romantic alleyways, quiet canals, well, some of that is real, but so too are the maddening crowd of tourists, the crappy, overpriced restaurants. You have to spare Venice a second look, you have to spare it time, many of the places you see are, after all, over 800 years old,  originally settled by Romans fleeing the Huns.
This was no mere city, it was once an Empire, spread over the Medieval world,  the Queen of the Adriatic, the City of Masks.
Venice, and one thinks of a city. But Venice spreads over 118 islands, and if you see only the centro storico, it's a shame, no matter how pretty it may be.
Rule 1. Don't rely on Google maps. Here, the streets are too narrow, to windy, Google maps doesn't understand the intricate alleyways, the narrow streets, trying to follow a GPS will get you hopelessly frustrated, and hopelessly lost. Instead, wander, and revel in how lost you become. The further from the maddening crowd you are, the deeper into real Venice you go.
Rule 2. Find a tiny cafe, which isn't a tourist trap (AKA not on the main square) down an alleyway, where there's preferably no English spoken. Order the best Cappuccino of your life.
Wander home in the evening and stumble across a church choir, sit down for a free concert in a beautiful old church and empathize with  the visiting English choir that had to be cut short because it was so hot half the singers were fainting. Magical all the same!

The Piazza San Marco is worth a visit of course, but expect crowds (unless there is flooding!) So go early in the morning, or at night, for a more tranquil wander. Having already visited Venice before, we avoided the main square, and wandered off down quieter side streets instead.
Stop for Italian tapas in a hole in the wall place. Drink Rose. Eat icecream at Venchi, gorging on pistachio, caramel and vanilla flavours. Chocolate if it floats your boat, like my chocolate-addicted siblings, who would rather be licking the bowl of a chocolate mousse venture whilst I gorge on cheese instead (fools!)


If there is only one thing you have time for in Venice, leave.
That sounds odd, but what I mean is go to Burano and Murano. If Venice feels spoiled, the islands are paradise. The best thing to do is just get a day pass on the water bus, as it's the most economically way to go about it. Murano is of course famous for its glass, I'm sure a factory tour is worth it, but I didn't have the money, so enjoyed looking in the shops instead. They have beautiful jewelry (especially earrings!) at very reasonable prices! All the glass blowing factories were moved here in the 1200s due to fires caused by the process (not worrying at all!). Some say the factories were also kept in isolation here to preserve their secrets of the mastery of making glass (and mirrors. Mainly mirrors. The medieval nobility were a vain bunch). 

Burano however, is the place that really blew me away. A fishermen's village, quiet, almost empty of tourists, it is known for its lace making, but the colorful buildings framing quiet canals are the lasting image I took away from it. It is said (somewhat romantically I'm sure) that the tradition of the brightly colored houses stems from the need for fishermen to be able to find their way back home in heavy fog (or maybe they were just a cheery bunch who liked bright colours!) It's already a quiet place, but step off the main route, and you have the streets to yourself; my favourite!

We ended our time in Venice with a lovely meal in one of the squares, where the waiter was a big fan of my brother Christophe for actually speaking Italian, and didn't much bother with the rest of us after that. We got a free glass of prosecco on the house (#winning!) and I had a delicious ravioli stuffed with cheese and mushroom.
It's a strange place Venice, the longer you stay, the more there is to see, and the more you fall in love with it.