We had problems finding campsites in the lake district, especially around Lake Maggiore, as it was touristy as ever, we finally found a place for the night in a campsite where the owner used a strange mixture of Italian and German to make himself understood. My brother luckily used his Italian skills, and managed to understand his warning of vipers going after bunnies in the campsite so to wear shoes at all times (vicious vipers being my own personal nightmare. yay.) we settled in somewhat cautiously for the night; luckily no vipers were seen and no bunnies harmed whilst we were there. In the morning we were off to Venice!
Venice
The thing with Venice, I realized, is I had barely scratched the surface. If you visit the surface of Venice, I can well understand how it doesn't seem a tempting place. Overcrowded, touristy, expensive, ruined? Look deeper.
The thing is, this is a city where you have to look a little further. If you are expecting romantic alleyways, quiet canals, well, some of that is real, but so too are the maddening crowd of tourists, the crappy, overpriced restaurants. You have to spare Venice a second look, you have to spare it time, many of the places you see are, after all, over 800 years old, originally settled by Romans fleeing the Huns.
This was no mere city, it was once an Empire, spread over the Medieval world, the Queen of the Adriatic, the City of Masks.
Venice, and one thinks of a city. But Venice spreads over 118 islands, and if you see only the centro storico, it's a shame, no matter how pretty it may be.
Rule 1. Don't rely on Google maps. Here, the streets are too narrow, to windy, Google maps doesn't understand the intricate alleyways, the narrow streets, trying to follow a GPS will get you hopelessly frustrated, and hopelessly lost. Instead, wander, and revel in how lost you become. The further from the maddening crowd you are, the deeper into real Venice you go.
Rule 2. Find a tiny cafe, which isn't a tourist trap (AKA not on the main square) down an alleyway, where there's preferably no English spoken. Order the best Cappuccino of your life.
Wander home in the evening and stumble across a church choir, sit down for a free concert in a beautiful old church and empathize with the visiting English choir that had to be cut short because it was so hot half the singers were fainting. Magical all the same!
The Piazza San Marco is worth a visit of course, but expect crowds (unless there is flooding!) So go early in the morning, or at night, for a more tranquil wander. Having already visited Venice before, we avoided the main square, and wandered off down quieter side streets instead.
Stop for Italian tapas in a hole in the wall place. Drink Rose. Eat icecream at Venchi, gorging on pistachio, caramel and vanilla flavours. Chocolate if it floats your boat, like my chocolate-addicted siblings, who would rather be licking the bowl of a chocolate mousse venture whilst I gorge on cheese instead (fools!)
If there is only one thing you have time for in Venice, leave.
That sounds odd, but what I mean is go to Burano and Murano. If Venice feels spoiled, the islands are paradise. The best thing to do is just get a day pass on the water bus, as it's the most economically way to go about it. Murano is of course famous for its glass, I'm sure a factory tour is worth it, but I didn't have the money, so enjoyed looking in the shops instead. They have beautiful jewelry (especially earrings!) at very reasonable prices! All the glass blowing factories were moved here in the 1200s due to fires caused by the process (not worrying at all!). Some say the factories were also kept in isolation here to preserve their secrets of the mastery of making glass (and mirrors. Mainly mirrors. The medieval nobility were a vain bunch).
Burano however, is the place that really blew me away. A fishermen's village, quiet, almost empty of tourists, it is known for its lace making, but the colorful buildings framing quiet canals are the lasting image I took away from it. It is said (somewhat romantically I'm sure) that the tradition of the brightly colored houses stems from the need for fishermen to be able to find their way back home in heavy fog (or maybe they were just a cheery bunch who liked bright colours!) It's already a quiet place, but step off the main route, and you have the streets to yourself; my favourite!
We ended our time in Venice with a lovely meal in one of the squares, where the waiter was a big fan of my brother Christophe for actually speaking Italian, and didn't much bother with the rest of us after that. We got a free glass of prosecco on the house (#winning!) and I had a delicious ravioli stuffed with cheese and mushroom.
It's a strange place Venice, the longer you stay, the more there is to see, and the more you fall in love with it.
It's a strange place Venice, the longer you stay, the more there is to see, and the more you fall in love with it.
