A Workaway to Remember: Part I

Breaking up the next three months is difficult, because I feel like I did so much, and experienced so much every day, even if it was just lying in the sun watching birds of prey soar far overhead. I will however try and give an overview of my fantastic experiences.
Coming into this workaway I had no idea what to expect, but looking back I know without a doubt it was the best workaway I have ever done, and felt far less of a job, and more of a home with chores, surrounded by friends and good food.

The house itself was stunning, a real country villa from the 1700s. There were a number of formal and informal rooms, a study, a hallway that looked like a ballroom and each of the bedrooms had names - for example mine was the Lilac Room (It felt like a game of Cluedo, where any moment someone would jump out and shout 'It was Professor Plum, in the Dining Room, with the candlestick!)

My room itself was lovely too, a double bed (such luxury!!) and even an en-suite bathroom! It was like being in a hotel. The view out my window was nothing to scoff at either. 

The house also had a lot of land, including the forest, a small lake, an even smaller pond and a couple of fields as well as a large overgrown garden. The entire property backed onto train tracks, which on paper sounds unpleasant, but the trains were fairly quiet and I quickly found the familiar noise of the train wooshing past rather comforting and familiar. It was especially nice to walk along the path next to the tracks at sunset. 

The other two workawayers who were there for most of my stay were both great and I am so glad to have met them. Kate, a friendly English girl who knew far more about DIY than me, and Magali, a quiet boy from the Netherlands whom I became firm friends with after we discovered we read all the same fantasy books and played the same computer games.
The type of work we did varied, but our one big task was to take all the shutters off the windows (and there were a LOT) and sand them back down, fill any holes and then paint them again.

Here you can see the last day of the project (after almost three months of slogging through them) when we are putting them back up (something just as hard as it sounds).

We did other work of course, from pulling up a bathroom floor and re-laying the tiles to completely transforming the garden. I wish I had before and after shots, however you can see the almost finished product here. Imagine two months before an overgrown field (the main stone path existed but was so overgrown it wasn't visible) not only did we weed the entire thing, we also laid paths, cut down dead tree trunks to create the borders and planted and tended all the plants that can be seen below. As someone who is certainly not a gardener, it was satisfying to see it take shape even though I had no prior experience with what we were doing.

I also had the experience of cutting down my first tree (alas with a saw and not in true lumberjack style with an epic axe). Our last task was building a huge compost box and moving the old compost (oh the smell) which was probably the worst task out of everything, however there was the highlight where I poked what I thought was an old soft potato only to realize it was a toad! It seemed un-bothered by my accidental attack and I think out of the two I was more traumatized. 

And of course, we certainly had fun too. When I first arrived it was freezing, but it gradually grew warmer and sunnier until we were spending our afternoons lying in the field, soaking up sunshine and watching birds of prey soar above us. I also tried my hand at archery for the first time as Magali had brought his equipment with him. Although I proved to be utterly useless at it, he was a patient teacher and I had a great time trying. I also finally achieved my goal of learning to whistle with my fingers (after many many many countless attempts which ended with me spitting all over my hand and little else) and we even built a tepee! 

And I haven't even started on our epic barbecues. A practice which started on St. Patrick's Day, we soon discovered to our dismay that the BBQ was not in a working state, however all was not lost as we decided to improvise and have a fire pit instead! We made vegetarian kebabs covered in pesto and grilled on the fire and they were delicious (especially washed down with Belgium beer - a staple at any BBQ!)

Our numbers soon swelled as we were joined by the lovely American couple Nick and Laura for two weeks. It was then that our dangerous habit of making cakes was born. With so many people and so many new recipes to try, it got to a point where we were all taking turns making a cake every two days! (And with nine people they went rather quickly too)

From Laura's epic caramel cake to Kate's vegan chocolate ganache cheesecake (pictured above) to the best carrot cake of my life, we tried them all! Cooking was also something popular in this house, the owner Debi was a wonderful cook as well as wine enthusiast which made for an excellent pairing. I tried homemade Cassoulet, Moroccan tagines, Indian curries, Mexican wraps and many many other things. I also tried Artichokes for the first time! I'm still not sure how I feel about them however, as although the flesh was rather nice dipped in salt, oil and vinegar, it was a long and messy business for little to actually eat. And then imagine my surprise when I reached the middle of this strange plant only to be confronted by a strange fluff-ball that made me feel like I had massacred a rabbit's tail! It was a strange vegetable to be sure.

The area around was definitely worth exploring as well, the local village had the ruins of a castle built in the 12th Century and still perched upon a hill. Although little was left of it now, it made the landscape dramatic and also proved to be the perfect spot for a picnic, overlooking the nearby river. Unfortunately I never had the chance to visit (it was by guided tour only) but apparently there were a network of tunnels beneath the castle which could also be explored. We also did a number of day-trips to local areas, but more on that later.

I can happily say that my fondest memories are lying out in the tepee hiding from the sun and surrounded by greenery and serenity. 

Goodbye Annecy

And suddenly it was that time again, and I was moving on. I learned so much, and made so many good friends and memories, it was easily one of the best experiences I had in Europe.

 In the week leading up to my departure, I made sure to catch up with all my friends and flatmates one last time.

My good friends from class insisted on coming over and making me traditional Colombian food for lunch on my last weekend - something I very much enjoyed!

They also brought with them a bought raspberry tart of epic proportions (and yes we did all have seconds) and it tasted even better than it looks!

On my last night I went out with my flatmates to a fancy restaurant we had been wanting to try for ages. We shared a fondue and it was to die for. I certainly took advantage of the specialties of the region (I'm looking at you Raclette and Fondue) and would love to go back one to enjoy them all again. 

My last full day it was raining, making my farewell walk of Annecy a rather wet one, but it still managed to look beautiful. 

It even snowed in the evening giving me a beautiful last image of the town, the mountains freshly coated. 

And then I was off, getting the 6am train the next day, headed for a work-away for an unknown period of time. Exhausted from the early start, I dozed for a while, and when I woke it was to a whole new world, snow was falling and the landscape had turned completely white. We hurtled our way past misty mountains and snowy fields, laden white branches and alabaster roofs. I felt as if I was on the Trans-Siberian train, passing through the depths Mongolia. Musings aside, as we approached Toulouse and I readied myself for the transfer and short trip to the village of Saint-Sulpice-la-Pointe, I realized my new adventure was about to begin. 

Carnaval Vénitien d’Annecy

Back in Annecy, I soon found the Venetian Carnival of the Alps was about to begin. Originally I was going to be staying a shorter amount of time in Annecy, so I was really pleased when I learned I would be there for it. Although I am sure it was nothing compared to the real Venetian Carnival, having not experienced that one I thoroughly enjoyed it. Started only a few years ago (well alright, 1996, how is that twenty years ago!) it quickly gained popularity and is now one of the biggest festivals in Annecy. 

People were dressed in all sorts of amazing costumes which were great fun to admire. I especially like the top right photo, as her dramatic pose is slightly ruined by the intensely curious child behind her. 

I was pleased that the festival coincided with another visit from Joe, my friend from archaeological dig, as wandering these types of things is always more fun with a friend. Having last seen him at Christmas for a short visit (and our own epic early Christmas, complete with roast chicken and a ridiculously large amount of Boursin cheese) it was great to catch up again, especially as I knew it was probably the last time we would be able to before he headed back to America. Determined to make the best of the short trip, we managed to combine awesome food, wandering the festival and a good old fashioned Lord of the Ring's Marathon (you can see why we are friends). 

One of the things I really liked about the festival was the lack of noise, unlike most things in this nature there was no loud music or marching bands, only these masked people, wandering in serene silence. It was almost eerie, their slow exaggerated hand gestures emphasized by their silence, but I liked it for its singularity. 

These guys even had their little dog dressed up! And when they would meet others in masks, they would simply dip their heads in regal acknowledgment and drift on. 

Although I unfortunately did not manage a very good picture of these two, they were probably my favourite due to their cool steampunk style. The amount of detail that went into their costumes was breathtaking. The other nice thing is as they simply wander the city and canals, its a free event that you can explore at will. So if you happen to be in Annecy for these two days in February, it's definitely worth checking out! But be prepared for crowds. So. many. crowds. 

English heritage: A work experience

My bus trip from London was rather long and I arrived in Dover after night had fallen, in the pouring rain. Oh England.
However it was only a five minute walk to my accommodation, and I had no problems getting in and confirming my booking. The lady running the place was lovely and friendly, and soon showed me to my room so I could get a good nights sleep before beginning my first day of work. My room was small and cosy, and best of all it had an en-suite bathroom so I didn't have to leave my room unnecessarily. It also had a little electric jug so I could make myself tea! How English.

My accommodation was extremely well located, only a five minute walk from the town, and a ten minute walk from Dover castle where English Heritage was located. It was a steep climb up the hill, but the views over the harbor were breathtaking. Breakfast was included in my stay and the lovely Bulgarian lady insisted on me taking snacks for my day.

After the round of introductions to our small team - two supervisors in charge of us on the project and another lovely volunteer called Ashely  - we headed off to our first site called Richborough Roman fort. It was a wild and windy day and we were being blown sideways just standing there.

Although we were working on the small museum set up here at this site, we were allowed to go for a wander around which I very much enjoyed. Although there wasn't a lot left, these imposing walls were rather awe-inspiring. Additionally just knowing the history of this place made it exciting to be here - it is the probable landing place in 43 AD of the Roman invasion.
 I spent the morning going through my induction and reading through rules and regulations, and then the afternoon helping to clean the cases and make sure their temperature and humidity levels were what they should be. We soon learned what types of readings should be showing by comparing them to the previous checks done (if this type of work has one thing it is tonnes of records and paperwork!). Sachets not unlike those found in shoe-boxes but called Silica gel and Desi-clay are also used to absorb moisture and these also had to be checked and often replaced. This type of work all falls under the category of preventive conservation, which is just one of the many branches of work in museums and heritage.

Our second day was spent at Deal castle, a truly impressive fortress that I would recommend googling to get an idea of its true shape (a Tudor rose). Built by King Henry VIII (Yes the same one who tore down all the abbeys and chopped off heads - looks like he did build things too!) These were built due to a fear of the French sending an invading fleet. Due to this purpose, this castle was heavily fortified, featuring drawbridges, thick walls, murder holes and a ridiculous number of guns.

Since it was built, Deal castle has always had a captain, although later this title became purely honorary, the captain still lived within the castle until a few years ago. We went into his quarters to give the place a quick clean and it was horrifically dark and dismal. The idea of an old man living there by himself in this big empty castle struck me as rather sad.

Although we worked hard, we had fun too. Lunch-breaks were usually spent in the shop as it was warmest, where we would chat and drink tea. In this particular shop there were English Heritage branded alcohols for sale, including one bottle that had been opened as a tasting bottle - and that was how I first tried Mead, in a castle in England that we had all to ourselves!
I then spent the afternoon cleaning this nineteenth century linen box press. It required delicate handling so we used a pony hair brush for dusting and cleanly gently.

Cleaning was definitely the main part of this job, and although I enjoyed the meticulous care that went into this and learning about the different tools used, it also helped me realize that this was not the career path I wanted to go down. Some parts of it really did pique my interest however, such as the conservation work. Learning exactly how artifacts were conserved in their cases and the amount of thought that went into placing them (for example placing metal and wood together in a case would be very bad because of the different moisture levels they need) was extremely interesting to me. I also enjoyed working in these buildings when they were closed to the public as there was something special about wandering these ancient sites in silence. 

Our last site of the week was Lullingstone Roman Villa, where we began the task of cleaning the intricate mosaic floor. 

 Each individual tessera had to be cleaned with a hogs hair brush and vacuum nozzle without disturbing the mortar between; this required meticulous care and patience but was extremely gratifying when we stood back and saw the difference our hard work had made (it became shiny!) Being able to see the mosaic up close we were able to appreciate the amount of work that went into showcasing the Roman elite's status and wealth, something which it still manages to do today, even if their owners are long gone. 

The area was so dusty we were soon all coughing, something we were assured was normal and simply a case of the 'Lullington Lungs' as they had jokingly dubbed it. After finally cleaning the whole floor, we started on very carefully cleaning inside the cases. Ashely's exclamation of 'I'll dust the baby!' had me in fits of inappropriate laughter, but eventually we were able to get our work done. 

On Friday, which was the last day of my work experience, we were situated back at Dover castle to unload all our tools, complete paperwork and clean anything we had used (such as all the brushes). I really appreciated being able to see this project from start to finish, not only working on site but also seeing the processes that went on to get this type of project organised and finalized. Once we had spent the morning going through all this, we were given some time to explore Dover Castle, as we hadn't had time before. It was closed to the public which meant we were free to roam. Although some areas were closed due to this, in most places it simply meant we had it to ourselves.

Old tunnels beneath the castle proved to be rather exciting to explore, however after going quite deeply into them we both started to get a little nervous - what if somehow no one realized we were down there and locked up the entrance? We hurriedly made our way back to the surface.

Overall having the opportunity to experience a week working for English Heritage was really useful for me. I learned a lot and it helped me decide what I do and don't want to do. Not only this but learning about what goes on behind the scenes was very useful and I feel lucky to have had such an experience. Thank you to my awesome team that I worked with, and to English heritage itself for such an excellent opportunity! I would definitely recommend it to anyone thinking of going into the heritage and conservation fields.

A quick trip to London

Soon it was February, and I only had a month left in Annecy. The time had flown by and I can't believe I ended up living there for almost six months! Midway through February my classes were interrupted for a week as I had applied for and was offered a week long work experience with English Heritage, a very well thought-of organisation in charge of many of England's heritage sites.

 I of course accepted, and before I knew it I was heading off to Geneve at some ridiculous hour in the morning to catch my flight to London. 

It was a long walk from the bus to the airport but I enjoyed the early morning walk as my bag wasn't too heavy and I was the only one around to enjoy the early mist.

Unfortunately said mist meant that my plane was delayed due to poor visibility, however I eventually made it and headed towards King's Cross where I was spending one night. It had turned into a beautiful day and I admired the impressive St. Pancras railway station before retiring exhausted to my YHA hostel opposite. 

The next day I had the morning to kill before taking my bus down to Dover, so I decided to use it well and went to the British Museum. I had been a number of times before so I knew where I wanted to spend my time. After stopping briefly to admire the Rosetta stone (it gets me every time) I headed for the Egyptian section to revel in the place that holds the largest Egyptian collection of objects in the world outside of Egypt itself. So many mummies!

Running out of time, I took a quick peak into one of my other favourite sections, the late Roman period in Britain. The center piece for me was this cup, carved in the 4th century and known as the Lycurgus cup due to the scene on it depicting the King Lycurgus who enraged the God Dionysus and, as things usually go when mortals tangle with the gods, met a sticky end.  The cool thing about this cup was that it looked a green color, but when light is transmitted through it, it turns this beautiful red.  

My last stop was in the Mechanical clock section mainly from Medieval Europe. This table clock (a dull name for something so shiny) caught my eye; built in 1525 and engraved for its owner King Sigismund I of Poland, it is so singular because it contains the earliest surviving fusee. Confused? So was I. Apparently a fusee is a pulley which is wound around the mainspring barrel of the clock and evens out the unequal force that would otherwise occur when the mainspring unwinds. Basically, it made the clock keep time better. Good stuff! 

It also had the caption engraved in Latin 'when you count the years 1525 Jacob Zech made me in Prague - it is true'. Another interesting part of history for this clock was that it eventually came into the possession of the Koch family in Germany, who owned a jewellery firm. After the company had been 'aryanized' and its assets frozen in the 1930s, their current owner Ida Netter was able to flee Germany secretly taking the precious collection of watches with her including this one. 

My head full of history, I had a quick peak into the free Alice and Wonderland expedition in the British museum (containing original manuscripts and letters of Lewis Carroll) before heading for my bus. Onwards to Dover!

Food, Beer and Art in Annecy

One of the nice things about my school was how centrally located it was, only five minutes from the town center (and consequently many a time we would wander into town with friends for a beer or two after class) and also surrounded by numerous interesting shops including a fried chicken place that all the super-intensive students who took class both morning and afternoon seemed to invariably end up at. I couldn't comment on its quality as I funnily enough never went. However one of the more interesting shop spaces was a small art gallery opened by a group of local artists which sometimes held local exhibitions. 

The school organised a trip there with Chloe acting as our guide (and translator for the lower level students) and so one Friday evening I found myself being given a tour of an interesting exhibition of Laguiole knives (apparently a very famous and expensive brand). Although I'm not one for modern art, the knives themselves were quite beautiful, and it was fun to see what inventive ways artists had thought to use them.

Considering it was a Friday night we all then traipsed off to my favorite bar in Annecy, 'Beer 'O clock'. Aside from being warm and cosy with a distinctly alpine feel to it (stone walls and wooden decor and thick blankets thrown on the chairs) the entire system was unique! After registering your name at the counter and being given a swipe card (which you then keep as yours to use every time after) you top up the card and then choose your beer (there were many options as you can see below) and then you served yourself! The screens showed how much money was being taken off your card and it was easy to top it up again. This way you could try as much or as little beer as you liked, and the selection of beers (and ciders!) changed every few weeks, although the seemed to focus on French and Belgium (my favourite!). 

Continuing in the food and drinks theme, the same week I also decided to catch up with my french friend Amelie to finally try Raclette, a local specialty, and also to practice my french. Raclette involves a giant wedge of Raclette cheese mounted on a special melting machine, once it has heated enough you scrape the melting cheese on to your plate and enjoy with little potatoes, cornichons and a plate of cold meats. Yum. 

The pepper flavored Raclette at its perfect melting point.

We also heard about a random concert going on at one of the university campus' for free. It was a bit difficult to get to and horribly sign posted (we ended up just following the noise to get there) but we eventually discovered it in an underground basement type area. I soon learned that French reggae is a lot cooler than I thought it would be! My list of new experiences was growing. 

A Winter in Annecy

At last the snow arrived, it wasn't much - not nearly as much as I had expected or was apparently normal, but it was snow nonetheless. Watching it snow was my favourite part of the experience, turning the world silent and covering everything gently. Unfortunately by the time we went outside it was turning to muddy slippery slush.

A layer of snow outside my classroom.

One of the best things I enjoyed about the IFALPES school was the effort they put into cultural events, getting students involved in holidays, foods and french culture. One day between classes they held a patisserie event at the school where after signing up we were able to have a special tasting. Chloe the school administrator was lovely (and also helped me immensely in getting my social security) so the event was improved by the fact that she was running it. 

Chloe took us through each pastry and what they were and then we talked about what we liked about each one, and of course ate quite a few! The other upside was there was only seven of us doing it, and as two of them were my flatmates and two of them my good friends, it made for a great experience! 

This leads me to my new flatmates (pictured above far right is Tania from Spain, and far left is Florine from the Netherlands) I was rather nervous about getting new flatmates after my month of having the place to myself, but I needn't have worried as they turned out to be the most lovely and fun flatmates I could ask for. We soon developed wine and cheese Fridays as we all had morning class that day, so after class we would walk to the local bakery for a baguette, the supermarket for a couple of bottles of nice red wine, and the Fromagerie for some cheeses from the Savoie region. The local cheese shop was lovely and friendly, and you could even see down into their back cellar where all the cheeses were kept!

Every week we tried a different cheese, getting to know the local ones quite well (I developed a taste for Beaufort and Comte especially) I can honestly say that my new flatmates (and consequently new friend group) and our cheese Fridays made my time in Annecy so much better and more memorable, not to mention I left with many new friends from different countries asking me to visit in the future!

My flatmates and I in our little kitchen.